Caviar Tales (or Sturgeon Tails?) Part 2
Last week we explored what makes caviar such a sought-after luxury. A recap of the two most important things learned from our primer is simple: First, caviar is unfertilized eggs—also called roe—which are harvested, then salt-cured. Second, only sturgeon roe, either farmed raised or caught in the wild, can be called “caviar.” Done. Now on to the next part of service and tasting. But first, let’s get in the mood with some Caviar stories from two TarteTatinTale subscribers.
Unexpected surprises, a caviar “bump” and a merry band of Bros
My Italian class buddy, Joan Ross, shares the same passion for caviar as I do. She likes to tell this story about a recent expedition to Marky’s, a New York caviar retail shop with a shoebox-sized restaurant hidden in the back called Huso.
“Marky's recently celebrated its second anniversary by offering a free caviar "bump" to all who stopped by at its uptown Madison Avenue location. For those unfamiliar with the practice, a "bump" is a teaspoon-size dollop of caviar placed on the back of one's fist to be licked off. Marsha and I met there and easily decided to enhance the occasion with lunch, which is quickly becoming a ritual.
Bros enjoy caviar too
“This day, however, we were rewarded with an unexpected treat: A cool dude (more about him later) pulled up in a $240,000 gleaming turquoise McLaren and swaggered into the shop. In one hand he casually held a crystal decanter of Louis XIII cognac and in the other a foot-long pipette.
First, he first high fived four young ‘bros’ anxiously awaiting his arrival. Then, he dipped his pipette into the cognac bottle and proceeded to share this shockingly expensive elixir with them, but sadly not with us. His posse of overly grateful acolytes was decked out in the requisite ill-fitting jeans, hoodies, flat-brimmed baseball caps, and non-athletic athletic sneakers.
“Huddled around the store’s counter (as if bellying up to the bar) the group sipped their expensive cognac, while chowing down on the fried chicken and caviar, Huso’s anniversary special-of-the-day. Then, the bros attacked a magnum of Champagne. Marsha and I stuck with our favorite dish on the luncheon menu - the Huso Dog - a colorful creation of crab, avocado, mayo and Beluga di Venezia Caviar served in a brioche bun. Sublime even without the cognac.
“Back to the dude: nothing to look at, swaddled in a baggy sweatsuit covered with labels. While his look-at-me attitude was not loud, it was unquestionably over-bearing. The caviar, cognac and car were impressive - the dude not so much. Just another memorable afternoon of unexpected happenings in the Big Apple.”
Deal me a hand plus a tin of caviar
Dr. Lou Aledort, a prominent New York hematologist, has been a caviar fan for decades. On a trip to Azerbaijan some 30 years ago, he decided the experience would be incomplete without some authentic caviar from the Caspian Sea. His local guide assured him there would be no problem finding it. Later that day Lou was taken to a rather seedy, unmarked, dimly lit underground location.” A group of men, all smoking heavily, were assembled around a table playing cards. In the back of the room was a rickety, old refrigerator filled with caviar. We quickly completed our transaction then retreated out to daylight and fresh air. On the way back to the hotel our guide stopped by a local bakery and bought us a loaf of lavash flatbread. We carried the bread and our prized container of Caspian Beluga back to the hotel and enjoyed it with a local vodka. It was sensational plus it only cost us $20!”
How is caviar harvested and processed?
Preparing caviar is often compared to winemaking. While the basic process for both is relatively simple, there are many subtle techniques involved which require years to master. The process begins with the eggs being removed from female sturgeons right before natural spawning takes place. As soon as the fish is unconscious, the roe must be extracted quickly from the sturgeon’s belly. Why quickly? Because once the fish is dead it releases an enzyme which destroys the taste of the eggs. The remaining sturgeon is later sold for eating as fresh fish or for smoking.
Speed and hygienic conditions are essential when processing the roe whether it is at a riverbank or in a highly modernized facility. The roe is graded according to size, color, condition and of course, specie. The roe is detached from a thin membrane and then passed through a sieve (the eggs are malleable at this point). Next, they are washed to remove any impurities and finally drained and dried.
The art of salt-curing
The salting process which follows is important as it reflects the caviar masters’ style. Some caviars are cured with commercial grade salt while others are treated with special salts from specific regions or mines. Fleur de sel de Guérand from France or Volga basin salt which has been aged for up to seven years to reduce any excess of chlorine, are just two examples used for curing better grades of caviars.
After the salting, the roe is firmly packed into traditional 1.6 kg (3.5 pound) tins. This specific size offers optimum balance between the eggs, oil, and air. A wide red rubber band is used to seal the tins. Inside, the eggs gradually mature by absorbing the salt, swelling up slightly to become perfectly round while gradually expelling the air inside the tin. When the eggs rub together inside their container, they make a noise called “ringing.” Experts can detect this delicate sound. The better-quality caviars are said to “purr like cats.”
Fish Welfare
Some people consider the traditional way surgeon eggs are harvested to be a thorny issue. Various companies around the world have developed more sustainable practices for extracting the roe which resonates with contemporary food marketing.
The process of stripping fish of their roe has been around for a while. However, the current introduction of modern technology presents certain challenges. The process uses ultrasound to track the development of the fish eggs. When spawning is near, the female fish are injected with a hormone to induce ovulation and facilitate the stripping process. Using a belly massage, the roe is extracted from a small belly incision. Then the fish is returned to water. The beauty of this method is that the female sturgeon can live out its life while continuing to produce even more eggs.
While this process may be more humane, caviar connoisseurs are less enthusiastic about the taste. Caviar extracted using the “no-kill” method has a less intense flavor than caviar harvested by the classic method. Additionally, the roe extracted through stripping needs to be treated with various solutions (ie: sodium alginate, calcium chloride, among others) to recreate the normal spherical egg shape for the roe.
For the experts, the end results are far from perfect. Additionally, the cost of “no-kill” caviar is quite expensive. Clearly, this is an ethical question for the individual purchaser to decide when selecting their caviar.
Buyer Beware: Not all caviars are created equal
Unfortunately, caviar is an industry one might call “opaque.” While many producers are ethical in their labeling, not all are. Add to that other issues of marketing smoke and mirrors plus the general confusion caused by the names of so many different sturgeon species and their hybrids, and the challenge becomes clear.
Consider there are now 90 different sturgeon aquafarms around the globe, each of which promotes its own brand and proprietary names. With 26 different sturgeon species plus all the cross-breeding, the problem increases exponentially. Take, for example: Kaluga Fusion Caviar; Daurenki, Baika Caviar, Alverta Caviar, and Regalis Platinum. I rest my case.
For a thorough article on how caviars can also be mislabeled to purposely confused buyers, feast your eyes on this NYTimes article by Florence Fabricant: Mystery in the Caviar Tin: Some Labeling Is Misleading - The New York Times (nytimes.com).
To say buying caviar can be tricky, is an understatement. This is why it is best to rely on a reputable caviar source who can guarantee you traceability for the provenance of their caviar in addition to its freshness and overall quality.
Alternatives to sturgeon caviars
Sturgeon caviars are not inexpensive and therefore, are normally reserved for special occasions. In between your coveted caviar experiences, check out salmon or trout roe as affordable, everyday alternatives. I like making salads with Pacific salmon roe. Their bright orange eggs literally explode in your mouth and are delightful on sushi, pastas, and canapes. Since trout roe is salty, it is not recommended to be eaten on its own. Instead, it works nicely as an ingredient in a variety of dishes which include cream cheese, sour cream or mayonnaise. (Check out this week’s recipe for a quick and easy beets and salmon roe salad.)
How to store caviar correctly
For this section on serving and tasting caviar, I sought the help of Chiara who works for Calvisius, an important aquafarm located in Northern Italy. Knowing this company is considered worldwide as the gold standard for sturgeon aquaculture, I figured we would be in good hands to make sure no errors were made.
As caviar is highly perishable it needs to be safely stored to retain its delicate, briny flavors. Caviar should always be stored in a refrigerator at 28⁰-30⁰ F, or in the coldest part of your refrigerator. Once opened, Chiara tells us, “The smaller the tin, the shorter the shelf life. A tin 28-50 grams should be consumed within 24-28 hours of opening whereas the large tins can last 3-4 days. “
Never store caviar in the freezer as this will destroy its delicate texture. It is also recommended to cover the container with plastic wrap before storing in the refrigerator. This helps to minimize the caviar's exposure to air.
Tips for serving caviar at its best
Remove the caviar from the refrigerator and allow it to stand at room temperature, unopened, for ten minutes before serving. Remove the lid, either immediately transfer to a small bowl, consumed directly from the container, or use in another preparation. Putting the container or bowl directly on crushed ice helps prolong the caviar's freshness.
Years ago, a friend—who knew I loved martinis—gave me eight crystal glasses for my birthday. They have a stemless V-shaped glass which nestles in a larger, wide-mouth bowl used for cracked ice. If I’m splurging and serving individual portions of caviar to guests, I use these elegant containers. Glassware with a multipurpose use: martinis and caviar. How practical.
The legend of caviar spoons
To begin with, remember that caviar loves cold and crystal. Some people also claim it hates metal. Other people laugh at this saying it’s a myth considering caviar is stored and sold in metal containers with no adverse effects. This information is only partially true and here is Chiara’s explanation. “The metal tins have a non-reactive vegetable coating to protect the precious roe from getting in direct contact with the metal.”
As for not using any metal for serving caviar, Chiara confirms there is one exception: “Pure gold, being an inert metal, is the only metal that will not interfere with the tasting of caviar, as other metals when in contact with saliva, create a chemical reaction that does impart an unpleasant flavor to caviar.” Traditionally caviar spoons are made from iridescent mother of pearl, bone, or horn. Plastic works too!
Buying the right amount
When serving caviar, a safe estimate of how much to buy is at least ½ to 1 ounce per person. If caviar is being served on its own with toast points or blinis, a 2-ounce jar serves about four people. For canapés, a 2-ounce jar should serve eight people.
Those guidelines aside, in my home caviar is only served to people who can really appreciate it. I also would prefer to splurge and double the recommended amount and then “eat hot dogs for a week.” There is never enough caviar in my book.
Tasting caviar like a pro
To appreciate caviar’s characteristics, start by examining the size, color, and shininess of the eggs. Here is what Chiara tells us to look for and why: “Larger size indicates higher fat content, thus richer flavor, not necessarily higher quality. All caviars, within their grade, showcase different characteristics and feature flavor profiles specific to the species/grade, not necessarily determining quality. I would consider flavor, freshness, salt content, and traceability as measures of quality.”
To appreciate the flavor first collect a small spoonful of caviar and smell it. (Here again there are similarities with how wine is evaluated.) Hold a spoonful underneath your nose and take in the aromas. Look for a faint scent of the sea, seaweed, earthiness, nutty quality. If you detect any fishiness, do not eat it.
Once it has passed the smell test, put in your mouth but do not chew it. Rather, use your tongue to do the work. It will notice the texture of the caviar beads as well as detect the butteriness of its natural oils and fats. You may also try breathing in through your mouth (just like the reverse whistle used in wine tasting) which helps develop the full aroma and flavor of the caviar.
Accompaniments are optional
Caviar has a delicate flavor and should be served with accompaniments that don't overwhelm it. Remember, simpler is better, particularly for the finer quality grades. Traditional garnishes include small slices of toast from brioche or pullman bread, dollar-size buckwheat blinis, or unsalted crackers. You can either serve the caviar au naturel on these carriers or spread with crème fraiche or sour cream. Another way is to use artisanal butter served at room temperature and mixed with a few drops of vodka.
Some people like to add garnishes of finely diced hard-cooked eggs (yolk and white served separately) and chopped onions. I would recommend not doing this with finer caviar as the onions, in particular, risk overpowering the caviar’s subtle flavors. You know, the ones you paid so dearly to capture.
And, the beverage of choice?
Traditionally, caviar is served with Brut champagne or ice-cold vodka. These classic choices pair luxury to luxury. On the other hand, why limit yourself? It really is an issue of balance: a delicate wine with a delicate caviar. A more assertive beverage with a more pronounced caviar such as Osetra. A dry, briny fino Sherry, or a clean-tasting Saké, or even a beer, can work nicely to cut through the caviar’s salinity and oiliness. A dry white wine or a rosé from Provence are also good matches. Calvisius even suggests serving caviar with cognac! So that Dude back at Marky’s wasn’t off base with his choice of beverage after all.
Serving Suggestions
My suggestion is the better the quality of caviar, the less you should play with it. Just serve it on its own, in a small glass bowl or container over crushed ice along with a mother-of-pearl spoon, my preferred way. However, as you work your way down the quality scale of caviar and other fish roe, feel free to use any of these serving suggestions:
· Top potato latke (or pancakes) spread with sour cream caviar with or without smoked salmon
· Carve out cherry tomatoes and fill with caviar, topped with fresh herbs
· As a garnish for your favorite sushi
· Add to a traditional lobster roll along with fresh chives
· Float on top of chilled potato vichyssoise served in a shot glass
· Spoon on deviled quail eggs
· Prepare chive-tied beggar’s purse crêpes filled with caviar and crème fraîche
· Serve on top of soft, creamy scrambled eggs
· Top kettle cooked potato chips
· Prepare a salmon tartare and garnish with caviar
· Stuff cocktail olives for a caviar vodka martini
· Spoon over vanilla ice cream
· Present on top of white chocolate disks, a recipe created by British celebrity chef, Heston Blumenthal
Chiara added to this list by suggesting her favorite ways to serve caviar:
· Serve atop avocado slices
· Add to a simple butter spaghetti, prepared with a dollop of crème fraîche and a bit of lemon zest
· For bolder caviars, such as Siberian, pair with seafood: oysters are a perfect match
Bump, the best way to go
Or, just spoon it on the back of your hand, between your index finger and thumb, and lick it off. This bump technique is how professional caviar purveyors have traditionally selected what they wanted to buy for their customers. It is the best way for discerning the quality of the product. If they didn’t like what they tasted, they asked for another tin to be opened before making their final choice.
Naturally, if the bump turns your teeth blue, don’t buy it!
If you are still curious about what makes caviar so unique, here is a link to Calvisius’ most frequently asked question: How To... – Calvisius USA.
And for more information about the health benefits of caviar, a link sent in by Ellen Negrin, one of our loyal readers, check this out: https://bit.ly/33f1pde
Between these two posts on caviar, you, too, can become if not an expert, at least much more informed on the topic of the world’s most ethereally divine food. And, by the way, in the photo used for this post, the man by the McLaren is not “the Dude.”