Central Park: New York City’s Green Crown Jewel
These long days of Covid-19 home confinement, no place offers a better refuge from our current anxiety than Central Park. Within 25 minutes of brisk walking from my home, I can arrive at the far end of the Park at its Fifth Avenue entrance. It is hard not to marvel at this verdant rectangle of peace and tranquility snuggly fitting inside the City’s tight grid of tall buildings and busy streets. Each excursion there, I am reminded of my favorite factoid: Central Park is roughly the same size as Monaco. But more importantly, I think about how it is New York’s green crown jewel offering all its visitors an experience unlike that found in any other urban park.
A WORLD OF ENDLESS SURPRISES
Each visit I am dazzled by Central Park’s world of endless surprises. Once inside, a rich mixture of sounds, sights, and smells cascade over me. Some I recognize—such as the nostalgic musical chimes coming from the Delacorte clock at the zoo, famous for its carousel of dancing animals. Others delight me for the first time. Last week, for example, I happened upon a busker producing giant-sized bubbles using a bucket of soapy water and two strings tied to wooden sticks. Squeals of laughter followed as a little boy scurried about to burst the bubbles with his tiny hands. Or, then there was the unexpected sweet perfume of jasmine flowering in one of the Park’s secluded woodlands which I could smell but not see. It is all part of Central Park’s irresistible seduction.
However, the best part of being in Central Park is its parade of humanity. New Yorkers—young and old, in every size and shape, and from every possible ethnic background—come here to play. It is precisely this diversity of locals peacefully partaking in the Park’s rich choice of activities which makes the experience so thoroughly enjoyable and uniquely New York.
A PLACE FOR FRESH AIR AND SOCIAL WELL-BEING
Since its opening back in 1853, Central Park has remained true to its original concept: a place to improve public health and civiv well-being. Did you know that Central Park was the first landscaped public park in America? It came about thanks to a group of wealthy and socially minded merchants and landowners who had visited the public parks in Europe and wanted something similar for themselves. They advocated for a public park where their families could enjoy carriage rides and strolls through nature with their friends. At the same time, they wanted the Park to offer the poor working class a respite from the crowded, congested neighborhoods downtown where they lived.
The City of New York used its power of eminent domain to acquire more than 700 acres of land in the center of Manhattan to create Central Park. As much of this land—between Fifth and Eighth Avenues and 59th and 106 streets—consisted of swamps and bluffs, interspersed with rocky outcroppings, it was considered undesirable for private development. But still there were 1,600 residents who had to be displaced. They mostly lived in a well-established African- American settlement called Seneca Village which had three churches and a school. By the time homes were destroyed, the community had expanded to include German and Irish immigrants as well, all living peacefully together. Eventually the boundaries of the park were extended to 110th street in 1863 which brought it to its current size of 843 acres.
CENTRAL PARK: A MAN-MADE WONDER
The creation of the park was the result of a competition won by Frederick Olmsted, a Connecticut-born journalist and agriculturist, and Calvert Vaux, a British-born architect. Their vision included sweeping meadows, woodlands, and a series of eight lakes interspersed with “dramatic rockwork arranged to include naturalistic caves, grottos and cascades.“ This is how the Central Park Conservancy describes Olmsted and Vaux’ original plan. This is the organization which, under a public-private partnership with the municipal government, runs the Park and manages its 80 million dollar annual budget.
Olmsted and Vaux constructed 28 miles of pedestrian paths and six miles of drives shared by carriages and equestrians. They also added a bridal path for horseback riding. To offer local citizens safety from all the traffic, the two men built a series of 36 ornamental bridges and arches which connected separate walkways for quiet strolling.
A GAME OF CROQUET ANYONE?
The Park was designed as a place to exercise and breathe fresh air as well as a cultural resource for the local citizens. Today that means a theatre where Shakespeare’s plays are performed free of charge; a children’s playhouse for puppet shows; a bandstand; and a vast field where the New York Philharmonic performs. You can also enjoy boating, ice-skating, volleyball, tennis, croquet, chess and checkers in addition to running and cycling.
Yet another asset, Central Park is a paradise for birders. Over 70 species can be found each year. Some birds live in the Park year-round, while others use it as a hotel in nature during spring and fall migrations. It is not unusual to see people with cameras and binoculars around their necks making notations of their bird-sightings in little notebooks.
A PERFECT PLACE FOR MARATHON TRAINING
The Park is the most popular training ground in town for runners, too. While my days of doing marathons are behind me, I still take great pleasure in checking out other runners on my cycling and walking excursions. Most are suitably dressed in normal jogging attire doing serious training. Others wear outfits more appropriate for a theatre stage.
There are always surprises to observe such as the guy who juggles three balls in the air while maintaining a serious pace. Or the fellow who sings operatic songs as he jogs along. There’s also a woman I see every Sunday who does dance routines—replete with dramatic hand gestures—as she glides sideways along the running path in her dancing shoes with heels. Another regular, a fellow with a full head of badly dyed auburn hair, insists on going against the prescribed direction of traffic. Furthermore, he uses the bike lane for his run, a bit of a death wish move, in my opinion. It is of no use to yell at him as he always wears a headset. In the end, though, everyone does as they please and no one really cares. That is, unless an owner with an unleashed dog causes a potential danger by running across your path. Then, cover your ears. New Yorkers can be loud and rude.
A MAGNET FOR NEW YORKERS
One of my favorite parts of the Park is the Bethesda Terrace. New Yorkers love to congregate here around its fountain—one of the largest in the City—topped with the much-adored Angel of the Waters statue. When Central Park was originally created, this was the only piece of sculpture commissioned. Created by Emma Stebbins, it is one of the most recognizable icons in the Park. The terrace has two tiers of esplanade which are joined by two grand staircases. As you might imagine, this makes the perfect backdrop for taking wedding and graduation photos.
After long walks in the park, I often come here to read my New York Times and check out the scene around the fountain. Last week there was a group of dog owners pulling their wet animals out of the base of the fountain. While wading is not permitted (for beast or baby), I was destressed to see this as it had just been planted with beautiful papyrus and water lilies. But, New Yorkers often like to bypass rules. It’s all part of our self-assured, independent spirit.
I directed my attention to a middle-aged man played classical Spanish guitar music in the arcade leading to the fountain. Four young children were hunched over the banks of the lake, which abuts the fountain, counting the turtles sunning themselves on rocks along the edge of the water. A bare-chested, young man wearing the shortest and tightest of shorts performed his exercise routine with dumb bells. No one seemed to pay him any heed other than a few furtive glances at his tight butt. What people did overtly react to, however, was a group of beautiful young women attired in gem-colored, jewel-incrusted Indian saris who stood on the steps posing for photos. They were so radiant that you had to stop and admire their exotic beauty.
SINGING IN THE RAIN
Back in the 90s, the Bethesda Fountain was closed for renovations. When it reopened, the third-grade class from a local private girls’ school, all dressed in yellow slickers, black rain boots and holding oversized umbrellas, slowly strolled inside the fountain as they turned on the water. Off to the side, a little girl on a portable piano timidly played “Singing in the Rain.” The sight of the happy children under the cascade of water made everyone in attendance smile with joy, especially the adoring parents.
Up the stairs from the Bethesda fountain, you can access the Mall and Literary Walk. Recently, I learned that this is the only formal feature in the original Olmsted and Vaux plan. They planned it so that a carriage could discharge its passengers at the south end, then drive round and pick them up again overlooking the Bethesda Terrace.
AT LAST, A STATUE OF REAL WOMEN
Today the Mall features one of the largest collections of American Elm trees in North America. The huge trees provide a cathedral-like canopy for people strolling down the quarter-mile pathway. Surprisingly, this is the only straight line in the Park. At the southern end are a series of statues depicting prominent male writers such as Robert Burns, William Shakespeare, and Sir Walter Scott. Most recently, the first-ever statue to show “real women” was unveiled to honor the 100th anniversary of the 19th Amendment. I am making a point here as other than this new statue women are portrayed in the Park as fictional characters—such as Alice in Wonderland and Mother Goose. This new statue, sculpted by Meredith Bergmann, displays three women’s rights heroes: Susan B. Anthony, Elizabeth Stanton and Sojourner Truth.
A HIDDEN TREASURE: THE CONSERVATORY GARDEN
The other day, my architectural designer friend, Kate Hanenberg, and I ventured over to Fifth Avenue and 105th Street to spend time in the Conservatory Garden. Most people are not even aware of this six-acre oasis which happens to also be the only formal garden in the Park. Hidden behind the magnificent, wrought-iron Vanderbilt Gate, it includes three sections of distinctively different gardens: English, Italian and French.
Kate and I walked to the far end to see the French Garden with its exquisite Untermeyer bronze fountain featuring three dancing maidens. There we happened upon “chatty” Bob, the self-proclaimed horticultural nerd who told us he worked at the Brooklyn Botanical Gardens. As Kate described our visit, “Our talk with Bob began with a discussion of the hibiscus, the variety of its colors, and its germination, since the pollen from the male parts of the flower can pollinate the female parts. Bob also told us about the other people there who were studying the great variety of insects in the park, including bees.” Our impromptu guide further explained that “the Conservatory garden plantings had been carried on without any of the usual volunteers this year due to the Pandemic and that Diane Schaub, who has been responsible for its design for 25 years, did it all by herself.”
As Bob rambled on, Kate and I noticed a typically New York scene of contrasts. “All this while two women in yellow hot pants, white fishnet stocking, and platinum wigs posed for photographs while on a bench an elegant young man with the shoes from the 20s quietly knitted a gray scarf.”
A WAY TO COMMUTE, TAKE REFUGE AND MEET UP WITH FRIENDS
For most of us, Central Park is our playground where we can exercise, reflect, and recover from living in a densely populated, highly conjected urban environment. I asked a few friends what it represented for them. My trainer and marathon-runner, Jenn Spina explained it was “a way to commute to and from work, to take refuge from the sidewalks and cars, and to meet-up with friends and running pals.”
For Jenn, it is also a place to experience the unexpected, especially when it comes to nature. “I once came across a neon orange snake at the 102nd street crossover. I figured it was someone’s discarded pet, so I alerted a park attendant to come pick it up. Then, one day on a run, an enormous hawk swooped down in front of me. I’m used to seeing chipmunks and squirrels in the Park, but I wasn’t expecting to be almost taken out by a hawk.” She added that “If the City had closed the Park during the pandemic, I would have been forced to move outside of Manhattan.”
CONNECTING WITH PEOPLE WITHOUT SAYING A WORD
Joan Ross, a retired CPA, explained the importance of Central Park to her as a New Yorker. “What can I say? It's the heart of New York, my New York anyway. Always full of surprises and new, ever-changing views. A lifesaver for me. As you know I walk there a few times a week, always the same route, approximately the same time of day, for an hour and 40 minutes. While I don't speak to anyone very often, I do see the same people over and over again. I think of them as friends and when I've finished my walk I feel as if I've actually connected with people, even without saying a word. And if I was tired or angry or depressed when I started, I am totally zen at the end. And when I'm not exercising there, I've explored new areas with amazement. There are hills, and rock formations, and hidden ponds. God bless Frederick Law Olmstead.”
A SYMBOL OF NEW YORK’S STRENGTH, RESILIENCE AND DIVERSITY
Joan Brower, public relations guru, sums up both the historic significance as well as current importance of Central Park for locals and visitors alike. “As public relations representative for a number of years for the Central Park Conservancy — the stewards of the Park—I came to know and appreciate the historic evolution of the Park and its original purpose. To me, Central Park is the symbol of New York’s boundless strength, resilience, and diversity.
“Through my work, I learned that while the European capitals developed as lavish tributes to God, NYC was constructed as an homage to Mankind, celebrating indefatigable imagination and limitless aspirations. Of course, the City’s most iconic achievement was the creation of Central Park by Olmsted and Vaux in the mid-19th century. Built as a completely man-made park environment, it was intended as the "People's Garden" and an escape from gritty urban life for the largely poor immigrant communities unable to escape the City during sweltering summers. But its vast beauty, artistic expressions and recreational options eventually made Central Park the preferred playground for ALL New Yorkers as well as legions of global visitors, attracting more than 42 million visits annually. As it has been for more than 150 years, Central Park remains an uplifting, natural cocoon for all of us New Yorkers living through the Covid-19 pandemic.”
To learn more about Central Park and the Conservancy, check out this video https://www.centralparknyc.org/mycentralpark