Morocco Part 3: One of the world’s great cuisines
As there was so much to say in this section on Moroccan cuisine, I’m devoting two posts to the topic. This way comments from three guest contributors can be included.
Let’s launch the discussion with an introduction by long-time wine writer and marketing expert, Lila Gault.
I did not expect to fall in love with Moroccan food on my first trip to Paris shortly after college. I had gone to visit a dear friend, living in Paris near the Sciences Po, where she was earning a PhD in Political Science. She was my first friend who was a true foodie, happy to introduce me to French classics such as onion tart, coq au vin and crème caramel, but also to my first couscous, arguably one of the most intriguingly aromatic and flavorful dishes I had ever tasted.
Fast forward many decades later when my husband and I went on a 10-day exploration of Morocco, focusing on history, food, and culture, organized by a first-rate travel expert. We travelled the country, strolling through souks (markets) with countless protein, produce and spice vendors, and staying in riads and hotels, whose kitchens were staffed by excellent home cooks and restaurant chefs. We even spent several hours one morning at a well-known cooking school in Marrakesh, la Maison Arabe, preparing, then enjoying, our lunch under the instruction of a talented teacher. Our enthusiasm grew quickly.
Inspired by its origins in Arab, Berber, Andalusian and Mediterranean cultures, Moroccan cuisine is both distinctively flavorful and complex. Many consider it among the top 10 cuisines of the world. I would certainly agree.
And so, would I. My introduction to Moroccan cuisine was also decades ago through Paula Wolfert, America’s first expert on the topic. Paula gave me her cookbook, Couscous and other Good Food from Morocco, which I devoured by cooking my way through its pages of exotic deliciousness.
Becoming an expert on Moroccan cuisine
As a culinary adventurer, Paula spent several years living in Marrakech. She toured souks in the big cities and small villages cooking side by side with female chefs and home cooks. She was determined to learn all she could about the country’s varied and vibrant culinary traditions. When she returned to America, she enthusiastically became the first advocate of this somewhat unknown cuisine.
According to Wolfert, for a country to have a great cuisine, it needs four things: An abundance of fine, local ingredients; a variety of cultural influences based on its history; a great civilization; and a refined palace life. Morocco met all four of the criteria. Let’s unpack her theory.
An abundance of riches
While Morocco is not a big country—about the size of California—its typography is remarkably diverse. It boasts two coasts, one on the Mediterranean and the other on the Atlantic, both with boatloads of fish. Then, from its fertile, green agricultural belt between Fes and Meknes—where olive trees border lush, planted fields—to its five mountain ranges and desert oases, Morocco’s produces a cornucopia of exceptional local ingredients.
Moroccan cuisine, as Wolfert pointed out, is closely linked to its historical influences which include the great dynasties of the Idrissid, Almoravides, Almohades, Merinides, Saadians and Alaouites. If that looks like I’m showing off, I didn’t even mention the Phoenicians and Romans who kicked off the whole foreign invasion thing and even preceded the various dynasties. Nor the indigenous, nomadic Berbers who have lived through the country’s entire existence and whose early culinary contributions are legendary.
The palace chef’s culinary prowess and then, the invaders’
What’s also important to note is that the various dynastic rulers maintained substantial royal kitchens. Here they could show off both the rich diversity of their local ingredients and the sophisticated, culinary talents of their chefs. This was essential to keeping the ambitious courts happy in the four imperial cities of Fes, Meknes, Rabat, and Marrakech, each one taking its chance as the country’s seat.
Then came the string of later foreign invaders seeking new strategic strongholds in Morocco along its coast as well as fertile valleys. Further, as Lila pointed out, each conqueror, be they Arabic, European or African, added their own influence on Morocco’s culinary landscape. Let’s trace some of the highlights of who brought what to the country’s unique culinary melting pot.
The many layers and flavors of Moroccan cuisine
The Berbers
The Berbers (or Amazigns) have been the bedrock of the country’s culinary traditions since the beginning. More than 2000 years ago they were the first to use the slow cooking method and even invented an earthenware cooking vessel for it called a tagine. They are also credited with giving the world couscous, or steamed granules of crushed durum wheat. Their close connection to the land meant they relied on locally sourced ingredients such as chickpeas, beans, meats, and grains, the very basis for two iconic dishes the Berbers introduced: tagines—the dish and its cooking vessel—and couscous.
The Arabs
When the Arabs invaded in the 7th Century, not only did they bring exotic spices with them transported from China, India, and Malaysia, but also the tradition of sweet-and-sour cooking. This technique borrowed from the Persians, included the use of nuts and dried fruits. All of this was easily integrated into the indigenous culinary repertoire of the Berbers.
The Moors
The Moors (Muslims living in the Iberian Peninsula in the 8th century) didn’t have far to go when they conquered Morocco. They just crossed the Strait of Gibraltar bringing with them their tradition of olives and olive oil. Once they landed, the Moors planted date palm trees, citrus gardens, and fruit bearing trees as well. The Moorish population was followed by the Jewish Moors who added their culinary knowhow of pickling and preserving fruits and vegetables.
The Ottoman Empire
The Ottoman Empire brought their love of kebabs, grills, and barbecues with them when they invaded the country in the 16th century. They also helped popularize combining lamb with yogurt. And for dessert, they introduced baklava, a popular sweet which Moroccan cooks made uniquely their own by the addition of rose water flavoring.
The French
The melting pot continued with the influence of the French colonization in the early 1900s. They were responsible for bringing pastries and breads, such as flaky croissants, which co-exist today alongside the traditional Moroccan bread called khobz. With the French also came the tradition of a café culture as well as wine production, albeit still on a very small scale.
The importance of agriculture to the country’s economy
On our recent trip we learned that agriculture remains a vital sector of Morocco’s economy. While the country is diligently working to diversify its economy—making strong inroads with their automotive industry and renewable energy programs—agriculture still accounts for more than 10% of the country’s GDP and employs 30% of its work force.
A treasure trove of specialty food ingredients
Here are some of the most important Moroccan specialty food products you’ll want to sample when you visit as well as bring home as edible souvenirs. Alternatively, you can also look for most of these items online or at select specialty food shops. Or even at your local supermarket. I found the first three at my Trader Joe’s!
Sardines: While you may be wrinkling your nose at the thought of sardines, remember two things: They are incredibly heathy—an excellent source of protein, vitamin B12, vitamin D and calcium—and these canned sardines are most likely exported from Morocco. In fact, it’s the world’s largest exporter of these delectable little fish! Check out TJ’s skinless, boneless variety. Delicious. Trust me.
Dates: There are 45 varieties of dates in Morocco which are primarily grown in the southern oases of Drâa and Tafilalet. The most prized is the medjool, a variety once reserved for kings and sultans. Nowadays, dates are often your first introduction to Moroccan hospitality and cuisine as they are frequently offered to guests, stuffed with walnuts, the moment you sign in at your hotel.
Olives and olive oils: Olives are omnipresent in the country. Just take one step inside a souk and you’ll find pyramids of different varieties: bright green, tan, russet, violet, and deep purple in color. Let’s not forget the wrinkled, shiny black Moroccan olives as well, the most famous of all. In fact, Morocco is the world’s second largest producer of table olives.
Additionally, Morocco is the sixth largest producer of olive oil in the world. While we tend to bow our heads in respect to Italian extra virgin olive oils, Moroccan’s version is also a powerhouse of health benefits plus its available at a fraction of the cost. Supposedly, the best cooking oil is made by Berbers who extract it from unripe green olives and scent it with wild thyme.
Not only is olive oil used for cooking, but also for beauty treatments. In Morocco, women remove makeup with it at night as well as apply it to their skin as a moisturizer.
Argan Oils: One of the rarest culinary oils, this one is extracted from the kernels of native argan trees. When roasted it adds an alluring, nutting flavor drizzled over sweet and savory dishes or for making salad dressings. (Normally, it is never heated.) Left “au naturel,” it is used for skin and hair treatments where it is appreciated for its hydrating properties. Check out www.herbalismmarrakech.com who offers a whole range of holistic, natural beauty products using argan oil as well as creams and lotions produced from roses and prickly pears, all from Morocco. I’ve become addicted!
Preserved lemons: This is an indispensable ingredient for many Moroccan dishes such as fragrant lamb, chicken and vegetable tagines. Essentially, these are lemons which have been salted, pickled in their own juices and left to cure for a month before using. Preserved lemons add an intensive lemon flavor to a dish without the sour tartness.
Fragrant waters: Moroccans use both rose and orange waters for flavoring cakes, candies, tagines, and salads. Orange water is made from the flowers of the bitter Bergamot orange tree where it takes seven pounds of blossoms to make one gallon of fragrant water.
Spices: Spices in their varied hues of school bus yellow, psychedelic orange and vibrant red, are ubiquitous throughout the village and big city souks. The liberal use of spices is part of the Morocco’s culinary heritage. Unlike in other countries where spices may be added to give heat, or to disguise inferior ingredients, here they are artfully blended to create a symphony of flavors distinctively Moroccan.
Ras el Hanout: Meaning “Top shelf” in Arabic, Ras el Hanout refers to a mixture made of the best spices a merchant has to offer. This is a must-take-home item sure to please even your most discriminating foodie friend. It’s a bright, earthy blend—always a closely guarded secret—made up of from ten to a hundred different spices! Among the most common are coriander seeds, fenugreek, cumin, cinnamon, allspice, ginger, turmeric, nutmeg, cloves, fennel, anise, and black peppercorns. If you’re lucky, your blend may also include other exotic, rare seasonings such as monk’s pepper, orrisroot or the better-known but equally expensive saffron.