November 2024 Paris Highlights Part 1

Just back from Paris, I can report that the entire city was abuzz with Notre-Dame’s “resurrection.” In case you missed the recent Sixty Minutes segment on the topic, here’s the link: https://bit.ly/3OA7Qiw In it the French President Emmanuel Macron spoke about France’s “unity and pride” referring to the last five years working tirelessly on the cathedral’s reconstruction. Over 2000 individuals, including three Americans, were involved in the $900 million restoration. And, just as the entire world mourned the loss of the medieval masterpiece when it went up in flames, so does it now rejoice in celebrating with Macron and his countrymen Notre-Dame’s reopening.

Since its devastating fire in 2019, I’ve visited the cathedral every time I’m in France. Throughout its reconstruction, the French Minister of Culture and the City of Paris commissioned a series of photo exhibits which were displayed around the periphery of the construction site. Each was treated with the same attention to detail as one might expect of a beautifully curated exhibition at the Louvre.

France’s most celebrated photographers were tapped to document various phases of the reconstruction: from the fire fighters putting out the blaze; to the army of architects and engineers incorporating traditional and innovative methods to rebuild the roof; to most recently, the crane operators who installed the church’s new lead spire and copper rooster. Each exhibit has honored both human skill, commitment, and national pride.

Last month the display showcased a photographic tribute to the compagnons referring to the Compagnons du Devoir or the Companions of Duty. These workers are part of a French organization of craftsmen and artisans dating back to the Middle Ages. Their mission is to keep alive manual skills such as stone carving, stain glass making, and iron forging. The non-stop news coverage of their work has brought about a swelling of interest in artisanal crafts among France’s youth.

On display this time was a series of striking portraits of various compagnons who labored non-stop to meet Macron’s outrageously ambitious goal: to open the cathedral in time for the 2024 Summer Olympics. Here were the faces of a carpenter, a gold-leaf decorator, and a blacksmith each treated by the photographer as if they were rock stars. And indeed, they were. Granted their deadline was missed by a few months, but it was thanks to the collective effort of the compagnons, plus everyone else who worked at the “construction site of the century,” that the great doors of Notre Dame opened December 7th. All this, amid a politically divided country too.

But politics aside, this is a moment for us all to relish. And this is a moment for me to write my last blog post of the year. Inspired by Sixty Minute’s tribute to the creativity, tenacity, and vision of the French, here are some of the highlights from my recent three weeks in Paris. In no specific order of importance, here are ten things which reinforced my long-standing admiration for the country, its people and their culture.

Fauré’s Requiem: My all-time favorite piece of music is the Requiem by the French composer Gabriel Fauré. When I read online that it was being presented at Saint Louis en L’Ile, a church near my apartment, I immediately secured a ticket. For 25 euros I had a stellar seat for the evening’s performance. First up was a handsome young Frenchman named Jean-Charles Dunand who stood solemnly facing the audience. As I was admiring his wavy brown hair and striking green eyes, he started to sing Fauré’s Cantique de Jean Racine as the first part of the concert. Perhaps it was the location—a lavishly decorated 18th Century French Baroque church—but I felt almost transported to heaven. Dunand’s baritone voice was stunning despite his odd manner of gesturing. When he finished singing and the applause had died down, he turned his back to the audience and gave the sign for the choir to line up on stage. Turns out our first soloist was also the conductor of the orchestra and the choir.

Their performance of Fauré‘s Requiem was brilliant. Serene, comforting and elevating, just as the composer had intended. It was also personally moving as I had once performed it at the Cathedral of Orléans as a member of a French American choir. I can still remember the music and score as if it were yesterday. Yet I still don’t know the meaning of its Latin text other than it was all about eternal rest!

Brittany crêpes at Marché Bastille: Thursday and Sunday mornings the open-air market in my neighborhood comes alive. For several blocks along Boulevard Richard Lenoir, you can find an amazing array of locally produced and grown fruits and vegetables, fish, meat, poultry and cheese. There are also specialty stands with things like honey, salt, wine, as well as Italian, Portuguese and Middle Eastern delicacies. One vendor offers nothing but freshly shucked oysters which locals enjoy standing up around upended wine barrels. Naturalement, a plastic cup of dry, white wine is available too. Normally, I’m at the market by 8:30 AM, just a tad early to imbibe. Even for me.

On this recent trip my house guest, Kathy Kennerley, and I discovered a delicious alternative breakfast: buckwheat crêpes. Even though the popular stand with Brittany specialties has always been busy, I’ve never sampled any of their offerings. This time was different as both Kathy and I were ravenous. We joined the crowd lining up for traditional Breton flour crêpes with sweet fillings as well as savory ones made of buckwheat. This is where the fun begins for serious foodies. The choice of fillings for a buckwheat galette bretonne included different cheeses—gruyère or chèvre—smoked salmon, eggs, ham or even better, garlicky saucisse or sausage.

As Kathy’s daughter Elizabeth (and my Goddaughter) was still asleep at home, we elected to emporter our order. The stall owner’s daughter who waited on us—this stand is a family affair—was as ruddy-faced and chunky as her father and sister. She set about making our crêpes on a large, round griddle spreading out the batter with a T-shape wooden paddle. She carefully wrapped everything individually in foil then gave explicit instructions on how to reheat them “To maintain their ultimate quality, très important, Madame, turn your oven on to 190 ° C. Then, when it reaches the temperature, turn it off and put your buckwheat galettes in for five minutes only. Not one minute more! Your crêpe with chocolate sauce and bananas can go into the microwave but just for twenty seconds. Would you like for me to repeat these directions?” she asked, looking intense with a furrowed brow while totally ignoring the lineup of hungry patrons clamoring for breakfast.

Fondation Louis Vuitton’s “Pop Forever” art exhibit: I am wild about art. My favorite museum for contemporary art in Paris is the Fondation Louis Vuitton. Using the museum’s electric jitney to get there is fun, too. It picks you up near the Arc de Triomphe then quietly whisks you away to the edge of Blois de Boulogne where you’ll find Frank Gehry’s iconic glass structure. Some call it a whale, others a boat. To me it’s a stunning amalgam of many sails. And the art exhibits inside rarely disappoint. The show this time spotlighted Tom Wesselmann’s 60-year career. Described as “the most famous pop artist you don’t know,” naturally I was intrigued as indeed, his name was new to me. However, seeing the depth and diversity in Wesselmann’s collection of paintings, collages and pieces of sculpture, I was blown away. In fact, in my opinion he made Andy Warhol—perhaps the world’s best known pop artist—look like a one trick pony!

Lunch at Virtus: Steps away from le Marché de l’Aligre”—the covered food market in the 11th arrondissement—is the highly regarded, one-star Michelin restaurant called Virtus. Chef-owner Frédéric Lorimier offers a four-course, or as he calls it “four act” lunch on Fridays for 70 Euros. For an additional 55 Euros you can also taste “a wine route in 4 glasses.” Chef Lorimier and his partner, Camille Gouyer, who runs the front of the house, serve guests “a cuisine of playful seriousness.” Instead of a stuffy restaurant with stiff linen and expensive Bernardaud porcelain dishes, they opt to create an intimate, relaxed atmosphere combining retro design with random flea market finds and witty tableware of unique pieces of handmade ceramics.

Virtus’ cuisine is far from relaxed though. Just look at one of the courses serve at lunch in November: “Barbecued roasted Mesquer squab and butternut squash garnished with shredded thigh confit with foie gras, lovage chlorophyll and shallot braising juice.” We’re talking serious food here presented elegantly, but also with a fun, surprise twist.

Given I was dining solo, I welcomed sommelier Baptiste Nicod’s helpful information on my choice of wine. Nicod epitomizes Virtus’ impeccably discreet, yet friendly service. As I had explained I was in the wine business, he would stop by between courses to offer tidbits of information: how he had recently attended a blind tasting where a French Crémant du Jura bested a Blanc de Blancs Champagne; and how a mutual friend, Pascaline Lepeltier, had just won second place in an international competition for the world’s best sommelier. At the end, he offered me a digestive. “Can you tell me what this is, Madame?” I failed miserably, mistaking it for a Sicilian Passito di Pantelleria. No, it was a dessert wine made from apples grown only in the Jura mountains by a recluse and not available for sale. Perhaps a gift from the winemaker to Nicod? Who knows? But definitely a prized ending for this guest to a remarkable dining experience.

2 CV Paris tour: Imagine turning Paris into your very own adult theme park on wheels. That’s exactly what my guests, Kathy and her daughter Elizabeth, and I experienced on our Paris Authentic car tour. Jean, our guide and driver, met us outside my apartment in the Marais. Tall, thin and stately with a full head of Mark Twain white hair, Jean carried himself with the refined mannerisms of a 70-something aristocrat. “You meet so many wonderful people on this job,” he gushed upon meeting us. Perhaps it was boredom being retired which drove Jean to his current métier, I wondered? But no question. Our guide was perfectly suited to the task. Not only did he bubble with enthusiasm, but he was also remarkably knowledgeable, offering us a steady stream of fascinating factoids.

His vehicle was a miniscule, tri-colored convertible 2 CV or Deux Chevaux meaning two horses. The 2 CV model—produced between 1949 and 1990—was an affordable, alternative to its big brother, France’s iconic and luxurious Citröen. 2 CV cars were often seen on the country roads in France where I lived as a teenager. Back then, Americans jokingly called them “sardine cans.” The locals more poetically called them “umbrellas with wheels” referring to their roll-back canvas sunroof. Jean chuckled claiming that his 40-year-old car had 25 horsepower, not the mere two its name implied.

Off we headed to Montmartre where Jean guaranteed we would become famous on Instagram. As we soon experienced, Jean was talking about the tourists who rushed to take photos of our quirky little red-white-and blue car trying to maneuver Montmartre’s tiny cobblestone streets. As Elizabeth described the experience: “The car was so cool! As we drove through the crowded streets in Montmartre, it felt like the tourists were looking at us, instead of the sites. Also, he (Jean) just missed hitting a small dog. It was so little we almost didn't see it!”

Kathy commented that the Authentic Paris experience was “a thrilling ride as our driver whizzed through the streets of Paris, navigating between the motorbikes, bicycles and cars. Jean showed us some unique spots most Americans wouldn't know existed.” That included the residence on the left bank where the final treaty for American’s independence from Britain was signed by Benjamen Franklin, John Jay and John Adams in 1783.

Without a doubt, this was the most offbeat, fun way to explore the City of Lights. Not only did our guide wheel us around the normal touristic sites—the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Champs Elysee, for example—but he also regaled us with pithy stories of politics, historical intrigue, and newsy current events. While Jean’s talent as a guide was impeccable, his driving skillset was somewhat of a calamity. In racing to see as many hidden treasures as possible Jean managed to cut off other cars, illegally cut through construction sites to access hard-to-reach streets, and basically violate every French traffic law on the books. Despite this death-defying experience, we all agreed it was worth it, even though Elizabeth was convinced she was going to be crushed at any moment in the front seat. No doubt, Jean had a special French angle on his shoulder—or was it a Saint Christopher medal hidden in his pocket guaranteeing our safe passage sailing through Paris? Either way, Paris Authentic and our guide Jean were fantastiques.