Nikos Antonakeas’ Eye on Greece
This is the fourth and final post from my fall 2023 trip to Greece, a country I unexpectedly fell in love with. I saved the best till last as here you will discover why this part of the world completely captivated my spirit as a seasoned traveler. In a nutshell, it was all about its people: their long history, unique personality traits and traditions, many of which date back to ancient times.
To take us on this last slightly sentimental voyage, I’ve enlisted the aid of Athens native Nikos Antonakeas who proudly and generously shared his insight and wisdom about his fellow countrymen.
However, first a bit of context. On my one free day in Athens, I decided to catch up with my good friend, the legendary Roberta Morrell. She is married to Nikos, the son of a Greek Army general, and has been for over 30 years. The two met when Nikos came to work for her family-owned business, Morrell & Company, a mecca for New York City’s wine lovers since 1947.
What some people may not know is how influential Nikos was in Roberta’s successful business. Before they married, he worked at Morrell & Company as a sales associate. Within seven years he became Managing Director of their Wine Auction Division. In 1999 Roberta and Nikos decided to expand the business by opening the city’s first wine bar which they located at Rockefeller Center. Nikos eventually became a co-owner and Managing Partner of the Morrell Wine Bar, making it a must-visit for New Yorkers and wine fans alike thanks to his mind-boggling offer of over 90 wines-by-the-glass.
In 2017, after Roberta had sold her shares in the wine business and stopped working as the new owners’ wine ambassador, she followed Nikos back to Greece. There she would also be closer to her children, all of whom had homes in Europe. Roberta and Nikos started a new chapter of their life living in Ekali, an affluent suburb north of Athens.
For our meet-up in Athens, Roberta and Nikos hosted a leisurely, three-hour lunch outdoors at Nolan. This centrally located, Michelin Bib contemporary bistro, is best known for fusing Greek dishes with Asian touches. No surprise as the chef’s mother is Japanese. Here, over multiple glasses of stunning Greek wines, I was able to catch up with Roberta and pose several questions to her strappingly handsome husband. Nikos’ European—and American, having lived many years in the States—perspective on the three questions is featured here in Italics.
Characteristics of the Greek people
The Greek character is a mosaic of traits as unique as it’s long history and diverse topography located in the most southeastern part of Europe.
Topographically, I can think of no other country of its size which has over forty mountain ranges above 6,561 feet high. This includes Mount Olympus at 9,570 feet where possibly the first mythology of gods and deities was created. Add to that its vast coastline—the longest in Europe—which stretches from the Ionian Sea (Adriatic) on the west to the Aegean Sea on the east and the Cretan Sea (Libyan Sea) on the south.
Historically, Greece is a country of warriors and intellectuals. Not only did it define both ground and naval warfare (consider Athens, Sparta, Macedonia, and Alexander the Great, as examples) but also the beginnings of civilization (consider mathematics, physics, architecture, and philosophy), just to mention a few. And all this took place around the same time.
After a 400-year occupation by the Ottoman Empire (now Turkey), WW I and WW II (where 10% of the population died) followed by a civil war sponsored by the USSR, the country is still trying to find its soul and identity. The Greek character is Mediterranean by climate, for sure, but also that of a survivor who wants to love and trust again in a geopolitical spot that has suffered over the centuries.
During my stay, I posed this same question to several other native Greeks: How would you define your country’s character? Tony, one of our guides, described the Hellenes (that’s what the Greek call themselves) as being fiercely loyal to their families and their social community. Laughingly he added “passionate, highly excitable, and loud, loud, loud!” While often critical of their government, Greeks are universally patriotic and as we saw in Nikos’ comments, proud and respectful of their long, rich heritage.
Tony further elaborated, with a certain dignity in his demeanor, that while Greeks may sometimes appear to drag their feet in business and life when they set their minds to it, they can accomplish remarkable things. “In record time as well.” He gave the example of the Summer Olympics in 2004 when no one thought the Greeks would be able to meet the deadlines for putting on such a complex sporting event. Dismal failure was projected by many outsiders. But in the end, the world’s press raved about the success of the Games as it simultaneously apologized for their groundless predictions.
Greece’s Coffee Culture
Kafeneio, refers to the tradition of a gathering place either early in the morning or after work to socialize around coffee. Greece’s coffee culture dates to the 1800s when it was reserved exclusively for men. It was the place where politics, sports, and work were discussed and often argued about, as Greeks love to do. Backgammon or cards would be played and an ouzo with meze (appetizers) would also be available.
More recently, the Kafeteria was born to accommodate women and young people with tastes for special coffees such as filtered, espresso, cappuccino, and the like. Today, one or the other form of coffee shop exists on every square in Greece sometimes sparsely decorated and frequently with tables outdoors.
As our group witnessed, and as verified by Nikos, both versions of coffee shop or café—the traditional one frequented by elderly men and the more contemporary, trendy type where young people meet up—are omni-present. Through our series of guides, we learned why: Coffee is a key component in Greek culture where it simultaneously represents tradition, friendship, and hospitality.
The Greek love of coffee came by way of their Ottoman rulers who introduced it during their occupation. Call it “Turkish coffee” or “Greek coffee,” it’s essentially the same beverage. It is made using a fine grind of coffee added to hot water which is then boiled in a tall, narrow pot known as a briki. Greek coffee is traditionally served in a demitasse cup without any filtering and always with a thick foam on the top. Once the coffee grounds are settled, it is slowly and carefully sipped. Sugar is added to taste. Greek coffee is always served with a glass of cold water. Frequently, it is also accompanied with a small dish of cookies or loukoumi (Turkish delight) to complete the coffee experience.
In the 1950s a quick and easy instant coffee drink appeared on the scene to compete with the traditional Greek coffee. It was invented by Dimitris Vakondios at a trade fair where he was overseeing a booth. When he realized there was no access to hot water, he resorted to mixing instant coffee with cold water, ice cubes, sugar, and milk, all shaken vigorously in a container. Thus, the Frappe was accidentally invented.
By the 1990s, however, once espresso and cappuccino from Italy appeared in Greece, the frappe fell out of popularity. Today most people favor two Greek variations: the Freddo Espresso and Freddo Cappuccino, which combine the rich taste of espresso with the Greek preference for refreshing, frozen drinks especially in warmer months.
During our visit to Greek wine country, we marveled at how long the locals took to drink their cup of coffee. Unlike Americans who gulp it down—as do the Italians! —the Greeks can spend an hour or more with their cup of Joe. For them, coffee is deeply rooted in their everyday life. Call it a simple and affordable form of socialization. It is meant to be time consuming, as it is always enjoyed with friends and/or business associates whether it’s an old-fashioned Greek coffee or a high-end Italian espresso. Or even a cup of Starbuck’s as this American phenomenon can be found in Greece as well.
The meaning of Philoxenia
According to Nikos, the word ‘philoxenia,’ which means ‘friend to a stranger,’ comes from Ancient Greek. It refers to loving people you don’t know. It extends to giving shelter and food, inviting strangers to one’s home, and basically sharing all you have. Hospitality—another English translation for the term—is in the DNA of Greek. To this day, it remains an integral part of our culture. Much in the same way as the exchange of ideas and the sharing of knowledge, the Greek people extend philoxenia to the entire world.
Hospitality, as Nikos described it, is a tradition based on Greek mythology dating back to 3,000 BC. It refers to both a divine right of guests and a duty of all hosts. Back then all strangers, even enemies, were under the protection of Zeus Xenios, the god of strangers and suppliants. Any violation could provoke the “wrath of the gods.”
Imagine this: There were no hotels or restaurants in Ancient Greece. This meant that travelers were at the mercy of strangers to provide food and shelter. Considering gods had the habit of unpredictably disguising themselves as mortals, hosts never knew if they were extending hospitality to a disheveled traveler or a potentially cruel and vindictive god. Better to treat each guest with respect and generosity, just as you would a friend, than possibly violate a god! In many ways, hospitality was a two-way street: a protection for the stranger and an insurance policy for the host.
As I say goodbye to Greece, for now at least, I’m reminded of an experience which occurred at the airport on my way home. As luck would have it, I was arbitrarily picked out by a smartly dressed, beautifully coiffed, middle-aged lady who was asking awaiting passengers to take a brief survey. No one was cooperating. As I had time on my hands with a delayed flight, I agreed to do it. After answering a few questions about my experience traveling in the country, I asked her if I might in turn ask her a question. She looked at me quizzically, then replied in a friendly tone, “But, of course.” When I asked her to choose one word which best summarized what made Greece unique from all other nations, she scribbled down on a pale green post-it “philoxenia.”
To that, the elegant pollster added in impeccable English that the word in Ancient Greece referred to the value given to hospitality. “Back then, philoxenia ranked at the top of the list of virtues for our country’s citizens, just as it does today.” And, as witnessed throughout our ten-day stay her response couldn’t have been more compelling.
Efcharistó (pronounced ehf-hah-ree-stoh) or “thank you” Greece for a travel adventure of a lifetime.