Debunking Wine Myths (Part 2)
Debunking Wine Myths (Part 2)
Let’s continue our discussion started last week on those long held beliefs about wine which deserve to be discredited. I am just back from Paris where I enjoyed some amazing wines, including a dry, fruity Chasselas from Savoie and a surprisingly delicious natural wine, a Vouvray from the Loire. (Normally I’m not a big fan of natural wines.) Now I’m primed to dive right back into our debate.
Before leaving I asked Mary Gorman, MW, what were some of the most frequent misconceptions she regularly encounters as a highly respected wine marketer and educator. Without skipping a beat, she rattled off:
· Box or keg wines are poor quality
· Bordeaux wines are all expensive
· Non-appellation wines are lower quality
· High alcohol wines are all from the new world
· Terroir wines only come from the old world
Reading this list should get you warmed up, too, for the second half of this conversation about entrenched public misperceptions related to wine. Let’s take a deeper dive together.
1. Sulfites in wine cause headaches
Let’s be truthful. Sulfites do exist in wine however, only in tiny amounts. In fact, we are talking about usually less than 100 ppm (parts per million). According to Wine for Dummies, co-authored by Mary Ewing-Mulligan, MW and her husband, Ed McCarthy, “Sulfur dioxide, a compound formed from sulfur and oxygen, is produced naturally during fermentation, in very small quantities.”
These naturally occurring sulfites—plus whatever may or may not be added by the winemaker in infinitesimal amounts—serve as “an antibacterial preventing the wine from turning to vinegar.” In their book, Mary and Ed refer to sulfites as a “wonder drug” of sorts as it also acts as a preservative and an antioxidant which keeps the wine fresh.
Mary further expounds on this topic of sulfites causing headaches:
Of course, there are individuals who are highly sensitive to sulfites, and cannot, for example, eat dried apricots because of the added sulfites. And of course, there are individuals who know from personal experience that they cannot drink red wines, or white wines, or bubbly wines. But in many cases, sulfites are identified as the culprit, when they very well might not be.
Dry red wines have a lower sulfite content than other wines, because their natural components—specifically tannins—guard them against oxygen degradation, as sulfites do for other wines. Dry white wines tend to have slightly more sulfite content than dry reds. Sweet wines, red, white, or pink, require a greater dose of sulfur in winemaking than dry wines because their sugar content could be a breeding ground for re-fermentation in the bottle—something that no winemaker wants.
Histamines have taken the rap for many years, but research has shown that when people get headaches from red wine, it's generally something other than histamines to blame—maybe the alcohol itself.
So, when you see “Contains Sulfites” on a wine label, do not freak out. It is harmless unless you are among the 1% of U.S. population which is sulfite sensitive. And here comes an interesting fact. Dried fruits, potatoes, pickled onions, maraschino cherries, and jam have more sulfites in them—in some instances ten times more—than wine. And you certainly don’t hear people complaining that jam gives them headaches!
2. ALL wines improve with or need aging
This myth is one of Ed McCarthy’s pet peeves.
I can think of many wine "myths." One myth is that ALL wines improve with or need aging. It is definitely TRUE for most good wines, including white wines and sparkling wines. But wines that sell for $15 or less are normally ready to drink and best as soon as they are released. For example, most inexpensive rosés are best when consumed in their youth.
3. Chiantis cannot age
People never argue about fine Bordeaux or Burgundy wines improving with age. But when it comes to cellaring certain Italian wines, such as Chianti, some wine consumers believe it’s a waste of time. Not so, claims Italian wine authority and author, Charles Scicolone. To prove his point, he recounted a story of a dinner party which took place at my apartment years ago.
We were having dinner and one of the guests brought a Chianti Classico and asked us to guess the age. We were all experienced wine tasters. One person said 1985, another said 1982, another 1970 ect. The wine was 1947 and it was I believe 50 years old at the time.
As I recall, the wine was a Riserva Ducale Chianti Classico, made by Ruffino, and it was breathtakingly delicious. What is needed for extended aging for red wines is usually extraction and a healthy dose of tannins. Many countries produce reds which can age so don’t dismiss the beautiful Barolos from Italy, Riojas from Spain and Shiraz from Australia. Surprisingly, there are many white wines, too, which are age worthy such as Riesling, Viognier, Semillon, Chenin Blanc and some Chardonnays.
4. Champagne needs to be paired with fancy foods
Ms Bond, a Champagne authority and lifestyle blogger who teaches in Taipei, regularly deals with this fallacy.
The most common myth from my students have regarding Champagne is probably the fact that they think Champagne is only paired with fancy French food! I always break this myth with them and tell them about my Champagne pairing with Taiwanese street food or French fries! It surprises them at first then they end up trying it and get comfortable and converted to being open about Champagne pairing.
I represented Möet & Chandon and Dom Pérignon Champagnes for over a decade and this same question of what matches best with bubbles came up constantly. The beauty of Champagne, and many other fine sparkling wines, is their versatility. While they are divine with sophisticated foods such as caviar, oysters, truffles, and many specialty cheeses, especially French, they are equally enjoyable with casual foods. Try mac & cheese, crab cakes, pizza, popcorn and just about any salted, fried food. So, the next time you serve fried chicken, pop a bottle of bubbles. You and your guests will be astonished with the “combo.”
5. Rosé wine is for summer only
Lars Leicht, wine marketing guru has this to say about the ever-expanding category of wine, rosés from around the world.
Limit Rosé? No way! It’s great with any season, any shade, and reason. Its acidity balances hearty fall dishes, rich winter vegetables, and lighter spring dishes. Nobody puts Rosé in a corner!
When you get Lars going on the topic of wine, there is no stopping him. Here’s another myth he wanted to discredit.
6. Wine is only to be consumed at lunch and dinner
A meal without wine is called breakfast. Try Champagne with an omelet, Brachetto with a fruit plate, even a light Barbera with charcuterie. In moderation, and on occasion, there’s nothing wrong with wine for breakfast. I remember years ago my farmer uncle in Italy told me that he had a glass of wine with his prosciutto sandwich at 8 am. “Wine with breakfast?” I asked. “Just one glass!” he replied!
Who knows how myths get started? Some are spread through unintended lack of knowledge by consumers. Sometimes dilettante “wine authorities” are the culprits. On other occasions disinformation is propagated through the smug dismissiveness of wine snobs. In the final analysis, it is important to recognize that wine production—and how they are marketed—is in a perpetual state of evolution. This means what is accepted today may not be tomorrow.
7. Box or keg wines are poor quality
Take for example, when Mary Gorman lamented how consumers believe that box wines are inferior. When this new form of wine packaging from Australia hit our shores back in the late ‘70s, it did not receive a warm welcome. NYTimes wine writer, Eric Asimov, described the early generation of box or keg wines as “the epitome of déclassé, the vinous equivalent of trailer trash, the wine snob’s worst nightmare.”
However, that negative image has changed completely. Now its attributes of convenience, stability—as it eliminates oxidation and thus spoilage—and its eco-friendliness are applauded. Furthermore, producers are now using it for both entry level as well as premium wines.
Today’s young consumers have taken to the new generation of non-glass bottles, including TetraPaks, and AstraPouchs. Their support of alternative packaging has reset the dial making it one of the fastest growing categories in the wine industry.
So much for this myth plus all the other ones which are waiting to be challenged. In the meantime, my advice as a wine lover of long standing is not to be constrained by the perceived notions of how to buy and serve wine. Allow yourself to experiment. Do take advantage of guidelines from wine authorities and your favorite wine retailer to help with your choices. But, don’t be afraid to veer off the map and explore something entirely new. After all, what pleases your palate is what counts most. Wines are there to enhance food and to be enjoyed with friends. That’s the honest truth!
As Alexis Lichine, the Russian-born Bordeaux Château owner and wine marketer-extraordinaire once proclaimed, “When it comes to wine, I tell people to throw away the vintage charts and invest in a corkscrew. The best way to learn about wine is the drinking. “ And, now you don’t even need a cork screw to do that!