Lobster Rolls

 Making a lobster roll can be an expensive proposition as it takes a lot of lobster to fill one little hot dog bun!  In fact, I calculated that the small lobster I purchased (1.3 pounds) yielded a mere 3.9 ounces of meat, the amount required for one generous sandwich. That set me back $21.00 for the lobster alone which my local grocery store steamed and cracked for me….free of charge, of course.

However, the real dilemma in developing this recipe was which style of lobster roll to make:  Connecticut, which uses butter or Maine, which calls for mayonnaise and sometimes other ingredients such as celery and scallions?  Die-hard fans who prefer the classic Connecticut version scoff at the other one, calling it “Lobster Salad Roll.” Not being able to choose, I decided to combine the two.  Besides there is something dangerously appealing with “gilding the lily” when working with lobster not to mention the thrill of rejecting purists’ high mindedness. Defiance in the kitchen! It felt and tasted so delicious!

Ingredients:

3 medium-sized lobsters (1.5 pounds each) or 3 cups of lobster meat (claws, tails and knuckles), steamed, and cooled

3 Tablespoons sweet butter

1 Tablespoon fresh tarragon, chopped

4 Tablespoons finely diced celery

4 Tablespoons finely diced fennel

1 Tablespoon finely diced scallions

3 Tablespoons homemade mayonnaise (or the best quality commercial mayonnaise available)

1 teaspoon lemon zest

1 Tablespoon lemon juice (or more to taste)

Salt and pepper to taste

1 Tablespoon finely chopped chives, for topping the lobster rolls

4 Flat-sided brioche buns

Cooking instructions:

1.       Cut lobster meat into  ½-inch pieces and set aside.

2.       Melt butter in a medium-sized skillet over a low flame, then add tarragon.  Turn off heat and let stand for 5 minutes allowing the herb’s flavor to permeate the butter.

3.       Return the skillet to a low flame, add the lobster tossing it in the butter while gently warming the pieces for no more than 2 or 3 minutes.

4.       Remove from heat and add lobster to a medium bowl; add all the other remaining ingredients except the chives. Gently toss.

5.       Toast the buns, or if you prefer, throw them into the skillet with the remaining butter and fry until golden brown.

6.       Fill evenly with the lobster mixture and garnish with chives.  Serve with a requisite handful of potato chips.

Makes:  4 sandwiches

Recommended wines:  Unoaked Chardonnay, Verdejo, Albariño, Arneis, Vermentino, Soave, Greek Assyrtiko, or any dry rosé. Or why not splurge and serve a Champagne.  The real deal from France, that is.